Unfortunately this is the best shot I got of Pa Bang, and that, of his back, being carried into his makeshift home.
This house really took our eye with it's purple roof.
One lady is giving alms while her neighbour waits her turn, though perhaps looking at the empty bowl, she may already done her morning merit making. The lady's white outfit indicates she is possibly a widow. Note the other lady's shoulder cloth which is worn to religious ceremonies of which alms giving is an important one.
Not sure if this is a storage area or just bad housekeeping. Across from our hotel in Pakse.
Sunset over the Se Don River at Pakse, from the roof garden of our hotel.
Looking south from the Pakse hotel, the Morning Market in full swing in the foreground, the hospital behind and the Mekong at the back with the mountains towards Thailand.
The same view but showing what the rooftop garden restaurant at the Pakse Hotel is like.
Yet another aerial view of Pakse. The town is interesting but few bits of the old town remain. The character of the place comes through though. Warm and friendly. A couple of monstrosities of hotels are appearing, including the former Prince's palace which I forgot to photograph! The Lao-Japanese Friendship bridge can be seen crossing the Mekong. South Johnstone eat your heart out!!! Our FNQ friends will understand that one.
Couldn't resist this one, though it lacks tyhe essence of the story. I don't know if the monks had their Ipods or MP3s with them but they were bobbing along on the roof of this new building.
This is one of the main Vats in Pakse and is a Teaching College for monks. All these were taken from the hotel roof.
Perhaps a better view of the Morning Market. They start at dawn and play loud music from beginning to end! Everyone parties madly!! The Mekong in the background
and the hospital is obvious with the cross on the watertower.
After this we go from one extreme to the other. We head from Luang Prabang down south to Pakse. This in in Luang Prabang at the Pa Bang ceremonies at Wat Mai. The ladies are performing a 'court dance' in front of the Lao President. I did a video of a sort which is at the beginning of the blog.
A general crowd scene at the Pa Bang ceremonies. Pa Bang is under the red cloth towards the back. Glimmering gold.
Here you have the steps leading up to where you pour the water on to the Pa Bang. Amazingly no one was on them! Normally it's packed. You can see the naga shaped water troughs which carry the water down to sprinkle onto the image. Devotees then collect the water, which has been blessed by touching the Buddha, to take home to pour onto their friends and relatives as a blessing to wash away all the problems of the old year and bring good and happiness for the new one. The water is scented with jasmine and frangipani and other oils which means it's very pleasant. Not for drinking though!!
NOT a good pic of the Pa Bang, but the best I could get. The masses of flowers incence sticks and candles around plus all the people and lights made it difficult, especially as this is a major religious ceremony. Rather like, I suppose, taking close-up photos of the Pope in Rome at Communion!
That's my candle the 5th from the left!
I suppose this is a better crowd shot around the image. See the guy with his shoulder cloth?
At Wat Sen, across the road from our guest house in Luang Prabang, they had brought our their buddha images, as they do at every wat in the country at this time. The candles which had been lit all melted into one and they had a lovely little bonfire! You can see the naga water carrying trough leading from the steps at the right.
On holy days they beat the drums, gong the gongs and crash the cymbols at 4am and 4pm. We happened to be sleeping across the road from 3 Vats which each had their own set of drums. No need for a wake up call!! This lot is at Wat Symoungkoun.
These guys are the drummers at Wat Sop
The big drum and bell at Wat Sen
They really get into the drumming and gongs. It isn't at all cacophanous. Very rythmic. This also is at Wat Sen.
Now you'll know all about wat drum towers!!! This isn't a tower but it is a wooden bell which is rung every day in Vat Sop. Amazingly it doesn't have a wooden sound at all.
These boats are kept in a shed behind Vat Sen, and taken out and used in the boat/water festival Bun Awk Pansa (the End of Rains Retreat) in October. It's another BIG festival attracting big crowds and we'd love to be able to get here for that! but who knows!! They have boat races on the Nam Khan and also sometimes on the Maekong.
I took this just to show the unusual bow of these boats. They are magnificently guilded, but just kept under a bamboo and thatch cover. Unsure of how many rowers they need but I think about 50 - 60 in each one.
I'm sure I took a photo of this Buddha at Wat Sen the last visit but couldn't resist another one. He faces straight across the road from where we were staying.
These gardens which look like 'bush' are on the banks of the Nam Khan. They will be under water in the rainy season. This is looking north.
Just a picture of a Lagerstroemia. They are all over town and come out just before the Cassia Fistula and the Poincianas. This is the main promenade along/above the Nam Khan in the centre of the city. Very beautiful and peaceful. It is where we come every morning for our morning, as in breakfast, coffee about 7am. The mist is rising from the river, the villages across the stream are all coming to life with cocks crowing, and people getting water from the river and vegetables from their gardens. Just marvellous..!
Restored old colonial houses along the Nam Khan, most of which are now hotels or guesthouses. They use traditional colours of ochre and brown here, unlike the maroon, green and brown in Australia
See, we weren't the only farang there!!!! At lest this one was properly dressed.
This was one of the carriers of the Pa Bang from the Palace. NOT a "Red Shirt"!!
Should have mentioned that everyone goes to pray at the Vat first before doing the Pa Bang 'bit' Note all the shoes, including my blue ones heh.
Back again to the glorious silks.
Just thought I'd throw in a view of the rooves of Vat Mai. It is exceptional in that it has 5 rooves. Mind you, not exactly clear from this angle!
These are the two 'guys" who lead the processions with the mythical beast. Unfortunately their names, or the reason for their existance, escape me, but I shall find out - again. Red faces and very hairy, rather like the cousin? in the Adams Family. You can see the people who have climbed up the steps to pour their libations down the golden trough on to the Pa Bang at the back.
A not very good close up of one of the naga water troughs. Poor lighting is my excuse!! Very ornate, very gold!!
Inside the 'red' shrine, the crowd mills around praying, lighting candles and incence, and pouring water down the naga troughs on to the Pa Bang under his golden canopy.
Believe it or not, this guy is farang!! but I just loved his outfit.
And again, the textiles are to die for. Fair enough, these beautiful silks are only brought out on special occasions but they are just sooo beautiful.
I took this one for the lady with the beautiful shoulder cloth, not realising that the mythical creature who always leads processions was right there! Remember, the red building at the rear has been built only for the 5 days of the festival. On the 6th it'll be gone.
Ladies with beautiful traditional silk sins and shoulder cloths.
You also have banners with the Lao horoscope which is traditionally carried at Pi Mai. Their animals are a bit different to the well known Chinese ones.
Here they are lifting the Pa Bang out of his carriage. He stands 83cms tall and is made of gold, silver and bronze alloy weighing 53.4kgs. Just thought you'd like the facts!
The President and all the dignatories bearing their traditional offerings of flowers, mainly marigolds and jasmine attached to cones of banana leaves. Isn't it lovely to see the Communist President going to pay respects to the Buddha.
The man in the white suit is the President of Laos.
Here they are carrying the palanquin with the image into the wat. There is always at least one farang who doesn't know about, or chooses to ignore dress protocol!! The thatched building at the back is a temporary structure built for the 5 days.
This is all to do with the religious aspect of Pi Mai when they take the image of Pa Bang, the Buddha who protects Luang Prabang from the former Palace in procession to the Vat Mai. It is on display there for 5 days during which time there is singing and dancing, and blessed water is poured over the Buddha for good luck. I know there are a lot of pics but I want to try and get the atmosphere across. Bear with me
This is me (A) - believe it! I AM a white person! We have just had sacred threads - Sai Sin - tied round our wrists by Lao friends in the bqasii ceremony. It is done on special ceremonials, like Pi Mai, and when people are leaving their homes to travel, to provide protection and love while they are away and to ensure good luck, good health and safe returns. A wonderful compliment we thought to be asked to participate. Our friend Noi's mother tied one specially on both of us which, although most people take off after 3 days, mine I decided to retain till we got back to Chiang Mai. Even now I am reluctant to remove it. Something VERY special. The yellow one is a wristband blessed by an abbot in Bangkok before we went to Myanmar. I'm not taking any chances!!
Even the local gendarmes get into the festive mood. These guys were on the island where all the partying happened, or a lot of it!
These monks were obviously thinking of buying the bike. They all came out and tried it out.
A close-up of Miss New Year 2009 or 2552 if you like. Not altogether sure about her regalia.
Just a view down the side of our hotel, as a change from parades and pageants!!
This one was next door to where we stayed. A typical old era Luang Prabang house.
These are the kids next door to our guesthouse, relatives of Noi's. The older sister was having sooo much fun dowsing her little sister with water, though the younger one occasionally caught her big sister off guard and chucked her container full on her.. At one point the older one had the littlie sitting in the basin while she emptied the water over her. A psychiatrist's dream in the furture??? A missed photo opportunity:-( They were delightful kids. This was before the parade with empty streets. The "leaning stupa" is in the background.
and this one too, though how the Abbott is going to let devotees pour the lustral water over his feet beats me.
I have a feeling I've duplicated this one. If I have, sorry. Fantastic pashmeena shawl for a monk.
He doesn't look like he needs protection, does he? It's like something out of National Geographic.
Along with the ogres. Aren't they adorable? They're the protectors of the wats.
and NO religious procession is complete without the monkey people from the Ramayana. These kids did it sooo convincingly, prancing and scratching themelves like, well, real monkeys!
A family off home after visiting the wat, right in the middle of the water games.
Another mob. Note the lady in the hat's watergun and her little blue animal backpack reservoir..
They're off to do the circuit of the city. We weren't far behind. Everyone of them would have some utensil to despatch water at anyone, especially falang!
and the party begins! This was a group of young people who had already run the water gauntlet! Lots of wet bodies. I think the guy at the back had just had a bucket dumped on him. The red upturned bucket is used as a drum to beat out the rythym (sp?) accompanying the blaring music.
Now, isn't he a picture?? An absolute scream. Everyone knows him, and respects him. The lady I tried to get in the frame is the VERY respectable owner of one of the city's best restaurants/hotels and a niece (I believe) of the former King. She too, lets her hair down an Pi Mai and boogies along with everyone. The 'ordinary' people treat her with great respect - depite the regime - but during Pi Mai the barriers are lowered somewhat.
and now that the processions and the religious part is over ......let the party begin!!!! Here some local trannies get into the action.
Here more 'ladies' are on their way back from Wat Xien Thonmg where the procession ended. They certainly are happy. The 'couple' in the background....well the guy in blue is a close relative of the former royal family and lives in Sydney. He comes for Pi Mai every year and apparantly?? is quite outrageous.
Across the road a monk with the most beautiful pashmeena shawl is busy with his zoom lense.
Now it's Noi's turn and it turns out to be half a tumbler of neat Lao Khao - Lao Whisky (Rocket fuel)
Here's trouble. Noi has met an old friend who insists on having a drink. Noi says "After you" Noi is in the Pi Mai blue flowery shirt.
Took this one to try and show just how colourful the whole thing was.
And just to show how pretty she is. Not sure about the trident and the arrow. Must research that. The silks are fantastic though.
Closer view of the Beauty and the Beast. Still, that's a purely Farang point of view as the whole future of the year involves the Pig. We saw paintings of Vishnu, I think it was, riding happily on a big black pig.
And here we have Miss New Year, Miss Pi Mai, riding on her pig. Yep, what else does a Lao beauty queen ride on?? To be honest though, this new year is the Year of the Pig in Laos. Still think it isn't all that dignified!!
Another crowd scene where East meets West. This girls outfit was superb, well all of their outfits were superb, apart perhaps from the shorts!!
The same view but showing what the rooftop garden restaurant at the Pakse Hotel is like.
Yet another aerial view of Pakse. The town is interesting but few bits of the old town remain. The character of the place comes through though. Warm and friendly. A couple of monstrosities of hotels are appearing, including the former Prince's palace which I forgot to photograph! The Lao-Japanese Friendship bridge can be seen crossing the Mekong. South Johnstone eat your heart out!!! Our FNQ friends will understand that one.
Couldn't resist this one, though it lacks tyhe essence of the story. I don't know if the monks had their Ipods or MP3s with them but they were bobbing along on the roof of this new building.
This is one of the main Vats in Pakse and is a Teaching College for monks. All these were taken from the hotel roof.
Perhaps a better view of the Morning Market. They start at dawn and play loud music from beginning to end! Everyone parties madly!! The Mekong in the background
and the hospital is obvious with the cross on the watertower.
After this we go from one extreme to the other. We head from Luang Prabang down south to Pakse. This in in Luang Prabang at the Pa Bang ceremonies at Wat Mai. The ladies are performing a 'court dance' in front of the Lao President. I did a video of a sort which is at the beginning of the blog.
A general crowd scene at the Pa Bang ceremonies. Pa Bang is under the red cloth towards the back. Glimmering gold.
Here you have the steps leading up to where you pour the water on to the Pa Bang. Amazingly no one was on them! Normally it's packed. You can see the naga shaped water troughs which carry the water down to sprinkle onto the image. Devotees then collect the water, which has been blessed by touching the Buddha, to take home to pour onto their friends and relatives as a blessing to wash away all the problems of the old year and bring good and happiness for the new one. The water is scented with jasmine and frangipani and other oils which means it's very pleasant. Not for drinking though!!
NOT a good pic of the Pa Bang, but the best I could get. The masses of flowers incence sticks and candles around plus all the people and lights made it difficult, especially as this is a major religious ceremony. Rather like, I suppose, taking close-up photos of the Pope in Rome at Communion!
That's my candle the 5th from the left!
I suppose this is a better crowd shot around the image. See the guy with his shoulder cloth?
At Wat Sen, across the road from our guest house in Luang Prabang, they had brought our their buddha images, as they do at every wat in the country at this time. The candles which had been lit all melted into one and they had a lovely little bonfire! You can see the naga water carrying trough leading from the steps at the right.
On holy days they beat the drums, gong the gongs and crash the cymbols at 4am and 4pm. We happened to be sleeping across the road from 3 Vats which each had their own set of drums. No need for a wake up call!! This lot is at Wat Symoungkoun.
These guys are the drummers at Wat Sop
The big drum and bell at Wat Sen
They really get into the drumming and gongs. It isn't at all cacophanous. Very rythmic. This also is at Wat Sen.
and yet more drums
I promise this is the last drum tower. This one is in Wat Sop
Now you'll know all about wat drum towers!!! This isn't a tower but it is a wooden bell which is rung every day in Vat Sop. Amazingly it doesn't have a wooden sound at all.
These boats are kept in a shed behind Vat Sen, and taken out and used in the boat/water festival Bun Awk Pansa (the End of Rains Retreat) in October. It's another BIG festival attracting big crowds and we'd love to be able to get here for that! but who knows!! They have boat races on the Nam Khan and also sometimes on the Maekong.
I took this just to show the unusual bow of these boats. They are magnificently guilded, but just kept under a bamboo and thatch cover. Unsure of how many rowers they need but I think about 50 - 60 in each one.
I'm sure I took a photo of this Buddha at Wat Sen the last visit but couldn't resist another one. He faces straight across the road from where we were staying.
These gardens which look like 'bush' are on the banks of the Nam Khan. They will be under water in the rainy season. This is looking north.
Just a picture of a Lagerstroemia. They are all over town and come out just before the Cassia Fistula and the Poincianas. This is the main promenade along/above the Nam Khan in the centre of the city. Very beautiful and peaceful. It is where we come every morning for our morning, as in breakfast, coffee about 7am. The mist is rising from the river, the villages across the stream are all coming to life with cocks crowing, and people getting water from the river and vegetables from their gardens. Just marvellous..!
Restored old colonial houses along the Nam Khan, most of which are now hotels or guesthouses. They use traditional colours of ochre and brown here, unlike the maroon, green and brown in Australia
See, we weren't the only farang there!!!! At lest this one was properly dressed.
This was one of the carriers of the Pa Bang from the Palace. NOT a "Red Shirt"!!
Should have mentioned that everyone goes to pray at the Vat first before doing the Pa Bang 'bit' Note all the shoes, including my blue ones heh.
Back again to the glorious silks.
Just thought I'd throw in a view of the rooves of Vat Mai. It is exceptional in that it has 5 rooves. Mind you, not exactly clear from this angle!
These are the two 'guys" who lead the processions with the mythical beast. Unfortunately their names, or the reason for their existance, escape me, but I shall find out - again. Red faces and very hairy, rather like the cousin? in the Adams Family. You can see the people who have climbed up the steps to pour their libations down the golden trough on to the Pa Bang at the back.
A not very good close up of one of the naga water troughs. Poor lighting is my excuse!! Very ornate, very gold!!
Inside the 'red' shrine, the crowd mills around praying, lighting candles and incence, and pouring water down the naga troughs on to the Pa Bang under his golden canopy.
Believe it or not, this guy is farang!! but I just loved his outfit.
And again, the textiles are to die for. Fair enough, these beautiful silks are only brought out on special occasions but they are just sooo beautiful.
I took this one for the lady with the beautiful shoulder cloth, not realising that the mythical creature who always leads processions was right there! Remember, the red building at the rear has been built only for the 5 days of the festival. On the 6th it'll be gone.
Ladies with beautiful traditional silk sins and shoulder cloths.
You also have banners with the Lao horoscope which is traditionally carried at Pi Mai. Their animals are a bit different to the well known Chinese ones.
Taking away the carriage. Don't you love the outfits!? It takes 12 young men to carry it. You have a couple of devotees with their shoulder cloths and flowers, and bowls for the water pouring, here in the front.
Here they are lifting the Pa Bang out of his carriage. He stands 83cms tall and is made of gold, silver and bronze alloy weighing 53.4kgs. Just thought you'd like the facts!
The President and all the dignatories bearing their traditional offerings of flowers, mainly marigolds and jasmine attached to cones of banana leaves. Isn't it lovely to see the Communist President going to pay respects to the Buddha.
The man in the white suit is the President of Laos.
Here they are carrying the palanquin with the image into the wat. There is always at least one farang who doesn't know about, or chooses to ignore dress protocol!! The thatched building at the back is a temporary structure built for the 5 days.
This is all to do with the religious aspect of Pi Mai when they take the image of Pa Bang, the Buddha who protects Luang Prabang from the former Palace in procession to the Vat Mai. It is on display there for 5 days during which time there is singing and dancing, and blessed water is poured over the Buddha for good luck. I know there are a lot of pics but I want to try and get the atmosphere across. Bear with me
This is me (A) - believe it! I AM a white person! We have just had sacred threads - Sai Sin - tied round our wrists by Lao friends in the bqasii ceremony. It is done on special ceremonials, like Pi Mai, and when people are leaving their homes to travel, to provide protection and love while they are away and to ensure good luck, good health and safe returns. A wonderful compliment we thought to be asked to participate. Our friend Noi's mother tied one specially on both of us which, although most people take off after 3 days, mine I decided to retain till we got back to Chiang Mai. Even now I am reluctant to remove it. Something VERY special. The yellow one is a wristband blessed by an abbot in Bangkok before we went to Myanmar. I'm not taking any chances!!
Even the local gendarmes get into the festive mood. These guys were on the island where all the partying happened, or a lot of it!
These monks were obviously thinking of buying the bike. They all came out and tried it out.
A close-up of Miss New Year 2009 or 2552 if you like. Not altogether sure about her regalia.
Just a view down the side of our hotel, as a change from parades and pageants!!
This one was next door to where we stayed. A typical old era Luang Prabang house.
These are the kids next door to our guesthouse, relatives of Noi's. The older sister was having sooo much fun dowsing her little sister with water, though the younger one occasionally caught her big sister off guard and chucked her container full on her.. At one point the older one had the littlie sitting in the basin while she emptied the water over her. A psychiatrist's dream in the furture??? A missed photo opportunity:-( They were delightful kids. This was before the parade with empty streets. The "leaning stupa" is in the background.
and this one too, though how the Abbott is going to let devotees pour the lustral water over his feet beats me.
I have a feeling I've duplicated this one. If I have, sorry. Fantastic pashmeena shawl for a monk.
He doesn't look like he needs protection, does he? It's like something out of National Geographic.
Along with the ogres. Aren't they adorable? They're the protectors of the wats.
and NO religious procession is complete without the monkey people from the Ramayana. These kids did it sooo convincingly, prancing and scratching themelves like, well, real monkeys!
A family off home after visiting the wat, right in the middle of the water games.
Another mob. Note the lady in the hat's watergun and her little blue animal backpack reservoir..
They're off to do the circuit of the city. We weren't far behind. Everyone of them would have some utensil to despatch water at anyone, especially falang!
and the party begins! This was a group of young people who had already run the water gauntlet! Lots of wet bodies. I think the guy at the back had just had a bucket dumped on him. The red upturned bucket is used as a drum to beat out the rythym (sp?) accompanying the blaring music.
Now, isn't he a picture?? An absolute scream. Everyone knows him, and respects him. The lady I tried to get in the frame is the VERY respectable owner of one of the city's best restaurants/hotels and a niece (I believe) of the former King. She too, lets her hair down an Pi Mai and boogies along with everyone. The 'ordinary' people treat her with great respect - depite the regime - but during Pi Mai the barriers are lowered somewhat.
and now that the processions and the religious part is over ......let the party begin!!!! Here some local trannies get into the action.
Here more 'ladies' are on their way back from Wat Xien Thonmg where the procession ended. They certainly are happy. The 'couple' in the background....well the guy in blue is a close relative of the former royal family and lives in Sydney. He comes for Pi Mai every year and apparantly?? is quite outrageous.
Monks don't usually wear this sort of gear. We wondered where he came from. Wasn't obviously Lao. and certainly NOT aesthetic!. Oops, I think I meant aescetic?
Across the road a monk with the most beautiful pashmeena shawl is busy with his zoom lense.
Now it's Noi's turn and it turns out to be half a tumbler of neat Lao Khao - Lao Whisky (Rocket fuel)
Here's trouble. Noi has met an old friend who insists on having a drink. Noi says "After you" Noi is in the Pi Mai blue flowery shirt.
Took this one to try and show just how colourful the whole thing was.
And just to show how pretty she is. Not sure about the trident and the arrow. Must research that. The silks are fantastic though.
Closer view of the Beauty and the Beast. Still, that's a purely Farang point of view as the whole future of the year involves the Pig. We saw paintings of Vishnu, I think it was, riding happily on a big black pig.
And here we have Miss New Year, Miss Pi Mai, riding on her pig. Yep, what else does a Lao beauty queen ride on?? To be honest though, this new year is the Year of the Pig in Laos. Still think it isn't all that dignified!!
Another crowd scene where East meets West. This girls outfit was superb, well all of their outfits were superb, apart perhaps from the shorts!!
From one extreme to another. These young ladies were also from the Ramayana, but, sorry, there was too much information overload for me to remember. They danced beautifully though.
and you can't have a parade without monkeys. These are Hamuman's people from the Ramayana sagas. Very realistic too! and there's demon or ogre in the green, and the monks snapping away in the background. Old meets new. The water droplets in the air came out ok as well.
Happy happy people
Frangipani flowers and holy water for blessings and merit
This Abbott is even more important, we were told. The people were pouring the lustral water over his and his attendants' feet. Sounds awfully similar to certain Catholic Easter practices I thought. The lady in blue, is our new friend Noi who lives in Sydney. A firm believer, she is there pouring her libation on the Abbott.
This is one of the Abbots, travelling on the back of a ute instead of being carried.
These little pots were carried in procession each time with a great deal of dignity, but we never found out exactly what they were, and why they were there.
We gathered these were city 'dignitaries' all decked out with their gifts, shoulder cloths etc. See the ladies at the back with their buckets? They, the buckets, hold lustral water to pour on the monks' and especially the Abbot's feet.
Lao horoscope banners - all sponsored by BeerLao it would appear.
and you can't have a parade without monkeys. These are Hamuman's people from the Ramayana sagas. Very realistic too! and there's demon or ogre in the green, and the monks snapping away in the background. Old meets new. The water droplets in the air came out ok as well.
Happy happy people
Frangipani flowers and holy water for blessings and merit
This Abbott is even more important, we were told. The people were pouring the lustral water over his and his attendants' feet. Sounds awfully similar to certain Catholic Easter practices I thought. The lady in blue, is our new friend Noi who lives in Sydney. A firm believer, she is there pouring her libation on the Abbott.
This is one of the Abbots, travelling on the back of a ute instead of being carried.
These little pots were carried in procession each time with a great deal of dignity, but we never found out exactly what they were, and why they were there.
We gathered these were city 'dignitaries' all decked out with their gifts, shoulder cloths etc. See the ladies at the back with their buckets? They, the buckets, hold lustral water to pour on the monks' and especially the Abbot's feet.
Lao horoscope banners - all sponsored by BeerLao it would appear.
As you see they include Garudas and elephants, quite unlike the Chinese ones.
Off to the wat with their flowers and offerings. The umbrellas were for the heat, not the water - that comes later
Here's the two guys who always lead the parade.Guardian spirit figure. There's also a mythical lion beast. As you can see everyone gets in and participates.
Get the message?? It's New Year, Lao style. The year is 2552.
And NOW!!! The next umpteen are of the Pi Mai Parade. Here the nice policeman is getting everyone organised. Or so he thinks. He is just about to get a bucket of water poured on him, 'cos you can do that on New Year.This is right down the main street past where we were staying, so we had front row seats!
So much for renouncing worldly possessions! They all have their super-dooper cameras and mobile phones. This was at Wat Symoungkoun and you can see the water trough and steps behind the monk. I hope I have already explained all about that. If not, it'll come later :-)
I just loved the image of these monks looking out of the wat waiting for the parade to begin. B is good at getting interesting pics.
These are the three Buddha images from Wat Sop which are brought outside for the devotees to pour the water over as part of the purification/clensing rites of Pi Mai. Devotees are supposed to go round ALL the wats and pour water on the images, not just the one they may attend regularly.
This one is at Wat Sen
During Pi Mai, they erect temporary shelters for their Buddha images outt the front of the wat, and bring them out for devotees to wordship before. This is at Wat Symoungkoun.
Believe it or not, this is looking down the main street in Luang Prabang. Fair enough it's not the so-called business centre area. The guy is the receptionist, security,and all round good guy from the guest house.
A lovely example of colonial Lao architecture in central Luang Prabang
Back view of her costume.
This may be Miss Pi Mai, on her way to participate in the procession, in her traditional Lao costume.
One of the attendants on Miss Pi Mai in traditional costume
All is relatively peaceful and quiet!!!
You'd never believe the previous 24 hours!
Looking across the Mekong to where the sand pagoda party was held the previous day and evening. Now all quiet, and waiting for the river to rise and wash away all the sand pagodas and the bad from the previous year.
Just for a change, here is a view of the finials on the roof of wat symoungkoun.
In the meantime, the party continued. These kids were armed with quite an array of water weapons. The hose really was only to keep the red bucket full. Unfortunately we could not get any 'action' shots because we did not have a water proof camera, but we shall be ready next time.
Boats disgorging people onto the island in the middle of the Mekong where the sand pagodas were being built.
The wheel house of our luxurious cross river ferry
Building a little pagoda of sand.
This is a pile of discarded 'polaroid' type equipment!!
Cooling off in the river. One way of pouring water over your friends I suppose. The city on the top of the banks in the background.
One of the old river craft that ply between Luang Prabang and ports up and down the Mekong. All made of teak, the boat not the ports. This one does semi luxury cruises.
See all the sticks from burnt out incence round the pagoda. The air is heavy with insence.Lao horoscope banners are all over the sand pagodas, for good luck and blessings for the New Year.
As you can see, farang are a prime target for water, tapioca flour - they used to use rice flour but tapioca is cheaper! - and grease! The last is a pain but..... This poor Lao guy is white with flour!
Lao youngsters at play. Old meets new. Traditions of Pi Mai meet mobile phones and digital cameras. It's the one time of the year that the traditional restrictions and taboos of male/female fraternisation are loosened.
Here's the local boys in green enjoying their Beer Lao!!
More people who decided it was cooler in the water!!!
and here I am. The ridiculous with the sublime. Standing there, waiting to get my photo taken with the sand pagoda and the flags when along come these two lovely young ladies who obviously thought "Falang alert!! Let's get him with the flour" And they did a good job of it!!
These kids were very proud of their pagoda, and so they should be. Quite a work of art really.
This island, or really a sandbar, in the middle of the river appears when the water levels drop. Then it gets planted with peanuts - and then the locals party like mad on it for Pi Mai. I wonder how the peanuts survive? but I gather they do.
and then you walk across these bits of bamboo to the other riverbank. Remember the Mekong is swirling very fast and deep!! under the bridge. Coming back after a day in the sun with qualtities of laolao and/or BeerLao doesn't bear thinking about! I gather people have drowned after toppling in.
This is the view from the old wat up above the pagoda building ground - aka partyplace! - and to get to this side you have to manoeuvre the bamboo bridge. Remember the Mekong is very flast and deep. It looks quiet but it isn't! Luang Prabang is among the trees.
Looking south down the river.
and a good time was had by all!! BeerLao anyone? Daniel in red checked hat has taken his share of the pelting with flour. Perhaps some of the locals were targetting him for being so well known.
Bob and Daniel. Bob is from Luang Prabang but left 30+yrs ago and lives in Sydney. He goes 'home' every year. Daniel is from Zurich and is working in L-P. He's been here/there for 4 years now. He is building a resort on the Nam Khan. Bit of a wheeler and dealer. Noi calls him "The Mafia" and I think is only half joking!! Nice guy though.Really likes Lao ladies and wants to marry one - with all the 'right' connections! He's a lot of fun and it was his truck we 'did the town' on the back of with all the water fun.
You gotta love that food!!!! A study in concentration!! Noe's local indigo dyed clothes were great.
Brenton has just been doing real justice to the food! He's showing signs of charcoal, grease and flour. You can't escape! The young lady beside him is Ng (I think it's spelt that way) a cousin of Noi's who lives in Luang Prabang. Really lovely girl. VERY popular with the boys, whom her grandmother keeps at bay!!! hehehe
Of course, what do Lao like most, apart from a party?? Food!! This lot of pics is of our lunch in the village. Noi gets stuck into the fish. They do the most delicious river fish crispy fried and soo spicy. Even I like it! You can see we had quite a variety of dishes and I think it all added up to about $10 including warm BeerLao!!! I don't believe it.
At the top of the hill there's a very old, somewhat delapidated wat, Vat Xiengman, but it is part of the 'deal' that you cross the river, climb up to the wat, do the religious bit and then climb down again. By which time it's time to eat!! and party!
Group photo time. Ng, B, Noi, me, Daniel and Bob outisde the wat at the top of the hill.
Looking across to Luang prabang.
Looking back across to the city with Vat Porsang in the distance.
Another view with Mt Pousi with That Chomsi stupa on top.
Back on the island the kids are out in force with their waterguns.
and walking the dreaded bamboo poles lashed together to form a bridge
Friends of Noi's who had just built this pagoda They were still unscathed, just lucky perhaps to avoid the bombardment of flour an water. The man on the left in the Australian shirt said to B, " where are you from ", so B said "Chiang Mai". The man tilted his head on the side and B said " Don't I look Thai ?".
Off to the wat with their flowers and offerings. The umbrellas were for the heat, not the water - that comes later
Here's the two guys who always lead the parade.Guardian spirit figure. There's also a mythical lion beast. As you can see everyone gets in and participates.
Get the message?? It's New Year, Lao style. The year is 2552.
And NOW!!! The next umpteen are of the Pi Mai Parade. Here the nice policeman is getting everyone organised. Or so he thinks. He is just about to get a bucket of water poured on him, 'cos you can do that on New Year.This is right down the main street past where we were staying, so we had front row seats!
So much for renouncing worldly possessions! They all have their super-dooper cameras and mobile phones. This was at Wat Symoungkoun and you can see the water trough and steps behind the monk. I hope I have already explained all about that. If not, it'll come later :-)
I just loved the image of these monks looking out of the wat waiting for the parade to begin. B is good at getting interesting pics.
These are the three Buddha images from Wat Sop which are brought outside for the devotees to pour the water over as part of the purification/clensing rites of Pi Mai. Devotees are supposed to go round ALL the wats and pour water on the images, not just the one they may attend regularly.
This one is at Wat Sen
During Pi Mai, they erect temporary shelters for their Buddha images outt the front of the wat, and bring them out for devotees to wordship before. This is at Wat Symoungkoun.
Believe it or not, this is looking down the main street in Luang Prabang. Fair enough it's not the so-called business centre area. The guy is the receptionist, security,and all round good guy from the guest house.
A lovely example of colonial Lao architecture in central Luang Prabang
Back view of her costume.
This may be Miss Pi Mai, on her way to participate in the procession, in her traditional Lao costume.
One of the attendants on Miss Pi Mai in traditional costume
All is relatively peaceful and quiet!!!
You'd never believe the previous 24 hours!
Looking across the Mekong to where the sand pagoda party was held the previous day and evening. Now all quiet, and waiting for the river to rise and wash away all the sand pagodas and the bad from the previous year.
Just for a change, here is a view of the finials on the roof of wat symoungkoun.
In the meantime, the party continued. These kids were armed with quite an array of water weapons. The hose really was only to keep the red bucket full. Unfortunately we could not get any 'action' shots because we did not have a water proof camera, but we shall be ready next time.
Boats disgorging people onto the island in the middle of the Mekong where the sand pagodas were being built.
The wheel house of our luxurious cross river ferry
Building a little pagoda of sand.
This is a pile of discarded 'polaroid' type equipment!!
Cooling off in the river. One way of pouring water over your friends I suppose. The city on the top of the banks in the background.
One of the old river craft that ply between Luang Prabang and ports up and down the Mekong. All made of teak, the boat not the ports. This one does semi luxury cruises.
See all the sticks from burnt out incence round the pagoda. The air is heavy with insence.Lao horoscope banners are all over the sand pagodas, for good luck and blessings for the New Year.
As you can see, farang are a prime target for water, tapioca flour - they used to use rice flour but tapioca is cheaper! - and grease! The last is a pain but..... This poor Lao guy is white with flour!
Lao youngsters at play. Old meets new. Traditions of Pi Mai meet mobile phones and digital cameras. It's the one time of the year that the traditional restrictions and taboos of male/female fraternisation are loosened.
.
Here's the local boys in green enjoying their Beer Lao!!
More people who decided it was cooler in the water!!!
and here I am. The ridiculous with the sublime. Standing there, waiting to get my photo taken with the sand pagoda and the flags when along come these two lovely young ladies who obviously thought "Falang alert!! Let's get him with the flour" And they did a good job of it!!
These kids were very proud of their pagoda, and so they should be. Quite a work of art really.
This island, or really a sandbar, in the middle of the river appears when the water levels drop. Then it gets planted with peanuts - and then the locals party like mad on it for Pi Mai. I wonder how the peanuts survive? but I gather they do.
and then you walk across these bits of bamboo to the other riverbank. Remember the Mekong is swirling very fast and deep!! under the bridge. Coming back after a day in the sun with qualtities of laolao and/or BeerLao doesn't bear thinking about! I gather people have drowned after toppling in.
This is the view from the old wat up above the pagoda building ground - aka partyplace! - and to get to this side you have to manoeuvre the bamboo bridge. Remember the Mekong is very flast and deep. It looks quiet but it isn't! Luang Prabang is among the trees.
Looking south down the river.
and a good time was had by all!! BeerLao anyone? Daniel in red checked hat has taken his share of the pelting with flour. Perhaps some of the locals were targetting him for being so well known.
Bob and Daniel. Bob is from Luang Prabang but left 30+yrs ago and lives in Sydney. He goes 'home' every year. Daniel is from Zurich and is working in L-P. He's been here/there for 4 years now. He is building a resort on the Nam Khan. Bit of a wheeler and dealer. Noi calls him "The Mafia" and I think is only half joking!! Nice guy though.Really likes Lao ladies and wants to marry one - with all the 'right' connections! He's a lot of fun and it was his truck we 'did the town' on the back of with all the water fun.
You gotta love that food!!!! A study in concentration!! Noe's local indigo dyed clothes were great.
Brenton has just been doing real justice to the food! He's showing signs of charcoal, grease and flour. You can't escape! The young lady beside him is Ng (I think it's spelt that way) a cousin of Noi's who lives in Luang Prabang. Really lovely girl. VERY popular with the boys, whom her grandmother keeps at bay!!! hehehe
Of course, what do Lao like most, apart from a party?? Food!! This lot of pics is of our lunch in the village. Noi gets stuck into the fish. They do the most delicious river fish crispy fried and soo spicy. Even I like it! You can see we had quite a variety of dishes and I think it all added up to about $10 including warm BeerLao!!! I don't believe it.
At the top of the hill there's a very old, somewhat delapidated wat, Vat Xiengman, but it is part of the 'deal' that you cross the river, climb up to the wat, do the religious bit and then climb down again. By which time it's time to eat!! and party!
Group photo time. Ng, B, Noi, me, Daniel and Bob outisde the wat at the top of the hill.
Looking across to Luang prabang.
Looking back across to the city with Vat Porsang in the distance.
Another view with Mt Pousi with That Chomsi stupa on top.
Back on the island the kids are out in force with their waterguns.
and walking the dreaded bamboo poles lashed together to form a bridge
Friends of Noi's who had just built this pagoda They were still unscathed, just lucky perhaps to avoid the bombardment of flour an water. The man on the left in the Australian shirt said to B, " where are you from ", so B said "Chiang Mai". The man tilted his head on the side and B said " Don't I look Thai ?".
"No ", he said laughing. " I am from England ", he said smiling. " you do not look English " said B and they both laughed and hugged eachother. Everyone is in a good mood here.
They DO love having their photos taken!!!
Here weare on our own little boat to go across the river to make sand pagodas
A cross river boat
Embarking to cross the river. Note the crowds waiting to greet us.
Looking downstream at all the actvitiy on The Mekong.
The crowds are building for the pagoda building ceremonies.
Main Street Luang Prabang with a tuktuk. This is in the morning before all the fun and festivities start.
You can never have enough photos of Buddhas!!!
I think I may have duplicated this one, but I do like the way the monks are hurrying about their duties, collecting the water after it has been poured down the troughs over the Buddha's head.
In the Palace (now the National Museum) grounds. Somehow, people, me included, just love to sit on cannons!
In the centre of town is big fountain, with a statue of Tollani, the Earth Mother nat, who pours the water through her hair onto the Earth to bless and cool it. It obviously is a place of significance to Luang Prabangers, as it was crowded all over Pi Mai and people were queueing up to circumambulate it. A very high proportion of Lao are animists,as well as Buddhists.
and you can't have a party without balloons!
Old colonial style frontage on a building on Main street.
This is the last one from Chiang Mai and we're off to Laos. This is the frontage of Wat Chang Khong just round the corner from us.
It houses a couple of very old images,and this one of Ganesh and a silver Buddha which apparantly is unusual.
I don't know the story behind this, but I gather the Buddha, or goodly person flew down and saved the righteous person while the 'naughty' ones got eaten by sharks, fish and crocodiles. very graphic. There's something in that for all of us, don't you think!?
Inside Wat Chang Khong
Prasip, our little "Super Security" guy at DoiPing, in Chiang Mai, all 5ft of him, well maybe 5'2". Supertaxi, I call him, as he's the one who runs us around on his motorbike. A lot of fun with three of us on the bike. He has a brother almost identical, though a couple of years younger who also works here.
A monk's work is never done! This monk is working on the watertank at the wat across the road from us.
Now you've seen it all!!!!! Winnie The Pooh Squirt Gun. Just what every child needs for Songkran. they also had Mickey and Minnie Mouses, Donald Ducks, Pluto etc etc etc.
What every cool monk is wearing this year.
Hand weaving cotton tassles.
Now, you too, could look just like this. Why Thai insist on their manequins looking like Farang beats me!! From silk threads to silk threads.
A semi-automatic electric loom
The original type of loom
and of course the master weaver!! Yeh, in my dreams
Just look at all these wonderful silks and cottons. we were at a textile fair in Chiang mai.
An original upright loom, the kind we saw a lot of in Laos.
They DO love having their photos taken!!!
Here weare on our own little boat to go across the river to make sand pagodas
A cross river boat
Embarking to cross the river. Note the crowds waiting to greet us.
Looking downstream at all the actvitiy on The Mekong.
The crowds are building for the pagoda building ceremonies.
Main Street Luang Prabang with a tuktuk. This is in the morning before all the fun and festivities start.
You can never have enough photos of Buddhas!!!
I think I may have duplicated this one, but I do like the way the monks are hurrying about their duties, collecting the water after it has been poured down the troughs over the Buddha's head.
In the Palace (now the National Museum) grounds. Somehow, people, me included, just love to sit on cannons!
In the centre of town is big fountain, with a statue of Tollani, the Earth Mother nat, who pours the water through her hair onto the Earth to bless and cool it. It obviously is a place of significance to Luang Prabangers, as it was crowded all over Pi Mai and people were queueing up to circumambulate it. A very high proportion of Lao are animists,as well as Buddhists.
and you can't have a party without balloons!
Old colonial style frontage on a building on Main street.
This is the last one from Chiang Mai and we're off to Laos. This is the frontage of Wat Chang Khong just round the corner from us.
It houses a couple of very old images,and this one of Ganesh and a silver Buddha which apparantly is unusual.
I don't know the story behind this, but I gather the Buddha, or goodly person flew down and saved the righteous person while the 'naughty' ones got eaten by sharks, fish and crocodiles. very graphic. There's something in that for all of us, don't you think!?
Inside Wat Chang Khong
Prasip, our little "Super Security" guy at DoiPing, in Chiang Mai, all 5ft of him, well maybe 5'2". Supertaxi, I call him, as he's the one who runs us around on his motorbike. A lot of fun with three of us on the bike. He has a brother almost identical, though a couple of years younger who also works here.
A monk's work is never done! This monk is working on the watertank at the wat across the road from us.
Now you've seen it all!!!!! Winnie The Pooh Squirt Gun. Just what every child needs for Songkran. they also had Mickey and Minnie Mouses, Donald Ducks, Pluto etc etc etc.
What every cool monk is wearing this year.
Hand weaving cotton tassles.
Now, you too, could look just like this. Why Thai insist on their manequins looking like Farang beats me!! From silk threads to silk threads.
A semi-automatic electric loom
The original type of loom
and of course the master weaver!! Yeh, in my dreams
Just look at all these wonderful silks and cottons. we were at a textile fair in Chiang mai.
An original upright loom, the kind we saw a lot of in Laos.
Brenton has found his way here! See the sign above his head. Not a sign of Bee Smith or The Freak anywhere, just very pleasant younger ladies.
The way to go. Only in Chaing Mai.
and NO, It's not on the way to the tip. They drive round town advertising whatever and blast it out of these spekers. Believe it or not!!
NO!!! We haven't decided to try our luck on the roads in Thailand.
The way to go. Only in Chaing Mai.
and NO, It's not on the way to the tip. They drive round town advertising whatever and blast it out of these spekers. Believe it or not!!
NO!!! We haven't decided to try our luck on the roads in Thailand.
Trying to get the impression and atmosphere of all the noise and activity on the river at Pi Mai across.
Monks in the Pi Mai procession get their lustral water blessings
The dancers at the Pa Bang Celebrations. It was at night and there were not that many lights, so I apologise for the quality.
The ladies dance for the President of Laos at the Pa Bang Celebrations. THere's none of the shush please, while the performance is happening, here. Everyone chatters on regardless.
